Alternatives
Kate Blanchett in Tar: undoubtedly elegant. But she is an actress and not a conductor…
No!
No!
Unless you are a waiter in a restaurant.
When he was in Boston, Seiji Ozawa had a new idea: still tails, but with a white turtleneck sweater instead of a shirt. Why not? With an additional touch of orientalism through the necklace, it was very new and personal, underlying his “Being Japanese” and not too much breaking with tradition. And still comfortable.
The so-called “Nehru-Jacket” (the name coming from a former Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, who always wore this type of jacket), a hip-length jacket with visible or invisible buttons and a stand-up collar, also called Mandarin Collar.
A short story of the Nehru-Jacket (Copyright westwoodhart.com)
“The Nehru suit, a distinctive ensemble featuring the iconic Nehru jacket, has a rich history that spans centuries and continents. This sartorial masterpiece traces its roots back to the Indian subcontinent, where it emerged as a symbol of nobility and refinement.
In its earliest incarnation, the Nehru jacket was a long, knee-length garment worn primarily by the upper echelons of Indian society. Crafted from luxurious materials, these jackets served as a clear indicator of one’s status and wealth. However, it was Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first prime minister after gaining independence in 1947, who popularised the modern, shorter version we know today.
Nehru’s adaptation of the traditional garment was revolutionary. By shortening the jacket to hip length, he created a more versatile piece that retained its cultural significance while offering greater practicality for everyday wear. This modernized Nehru jacket quickly became Nehru’s signature look, earning its moniker and cementing its place in fashion history.
The transformation from a symbol of Indian aristocracy to a global fashion staple was swift and remarkable. In the 1960s, the Nehru jacket caught the attention of Western musicians and celebrities, most notably The Beatles. Their adoption of this Eastern-inspired garment during their well-publicized interest in Indian culture catapulted the Nehru jacket into the global spotlight.
This cultural exchange marked a significant moment in fashion history. The Nehru jacket became a sartorial bridge between East and West, embodying a fusion of traditions that resonated with the counterculture movement of the time. It offered a refreshing alternative to the standard Western suit, appealing to those seeking to make a bold yet elegant statement.”
Although elegant, it is not as comfortable as tails (for a conductor) unless it is pretty oversized and doesn’t support the idea of a festive, important, special occasion. It has a charm of hieratic, a hint of priesthood (what some conductors like to project, apparently) —but it is a break with tradition, which I don’t really like.
Other elegant possibilities: a slim-fit double-breasted black tuxedo:
(This one is a beautiful Brunello Cucinelli black velvet double breasted tuxedo, offered at mrporter.com)
Yes, it is exquisite, but it is not very practical for conducting: the sleeves are typically not made for ample movements; too big sleeve holes at the armpit will cause the padded shoulder to go up when you lift the arms. I cannot imagine that it is comfortable. And it stops being elegant the moment you start conducting vigorously.
Ditto for a simple, elegant suit. And do not forget: black becomes grey under bright light, especially on television. The first choice is always Blue Midnight.
